View Full Version : Enfield Lock Plate After Electrolysis
raw-war-digger
December 13th, 2005, 10:03 PM
Hello My Friends,
I put the Lock Plate in an Electrolysis Bath yesterday evening and checked/washed it off several times. I turned everything off before going to bed. This evening I took some small tools and picked, scraped and dug around at everything that looked bad. I took scans and put it back in the Electrolysis bath one more time. I've stitched the recent scans with the previous scans to show the difference thus far. When I feel that it's clean enough I will coat it with a rust block (purchased at the local Wally World) and show scans of the finished restoration.
I've also started the restoration of the Baby US Box Plate and have it to what I call stage 3. I'm taking scans at the end of any major change.
Thanks For Looking! Sorry That Winter Has Hit You Northern Folks! Roger
Gregory
December 13th, 2005, 10:27 PM
Hi Roger,
That is really looking good.
Nice work you do:smile:
Can't wait to see it when it's finished.
Greg
NB Digger
December 13th, 2005, 11:21 PM
Roger,
That is really looking good and can't wait to see the end result. However, I am very curious about your electrolosis set up. When you have time could you start another posting showing your set up or at the very least start a discussion so that I may learn this process. I have several pieces that need to go through this process and know very little about it!
Thanks for any help!
Travis
boobieinPa
December 14th, 2005, 05:57 AM
They should look really nice when you are done. I have some pieces cleaned that way also.They turned out good. But are then coated with a clear acrylic. Can't wait to see yours when they are done.
raw-war-digger
December 18th, 2005, 10:05 AM
Just wanted to show the after I coated it with Rust Block.
Thanks For Looking, HH, Roger
NB Digger
December 18th, 2005, 11:57 AM
That turned out beautifully Roger! I still want to know your electrolosis set up! Or I might be sending 4 or 5 items in the mail for you to do for me!
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Travis
boobieinPa
December 18th, 2005, 12:43 PM
They look good.
I am glad they turned out so nice. I am going to start using the same method with some of my finds. Right now I have a buddy that does it for me. I figure right aftet the New Year I will have it set up.
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marine03116092
December 18th, 2005, 02:13 PM
That is a really cool find!! I need to learn how to do Electrolysis!!!!!!!
boobieinPa
December 18th, 2005, 07:33 PM
This is what my hatchet looked like before and after cleaning it with Electrolysis.
Pat
December 28th, 2005, 12:02 PM
Roger and Boobie...those look great! I have all my supplies, just haven't tried it yet. Looking at those pics, I may try something soon!
When you get an item down to the original iron or metal... the gray or silver color...the reason I am asking this is I like the good Ole black or brown old look to the item. What do you all do or use, to bring it back to this color (the black or brown)! Here we go again! Hope someone understands what I am asking!:spin: Seriously, wondering what are the different methods you all use! I have a few items that have a few spots here and there that are silver, I need to finish and then coat with some kind of rust block or clear coat!
Waiting for the finished products!
HH
Pat:smile:
SharkHunter
December 28th, 2005, 04:31 PM
How long did you Stew it?
Pat
December 29th, 2005, 10:11 AM
Sorry Roger, Don't know how I missed your post on 12/18 for the finished product! That looks great! I guess that rust block is the answer to my question, or did you apply some type of oil or paint before the rust block?
My inquiring mind wants to know! lol! Need your help!
Thanks
HH
Pat:spin:
raw-war-digger
December 29th, 2005, 09:45 PM
Hello,
It took several hours, checking often, turning off over night with several cleanings (scrubbed with a stiff hand wire brush using hot water and dish wash) in between before it was ready for the rust converter. I use a car battery charger, stainless steel for the positive, & 1/4 cup table salt per gallon of water. I've attached another site below for another method. I really didn't know this until afterwards when Travis had ask about my method and I have copied and pasted this from another site:
"NEWS -- Warning I have been made aware of the potential health problems with the use of stainless steel for the positive electrode. The stainless breaks down and releases chromium into the liquid electrolyte and a gas can be released (in the form of the compound hexavalent chromium) in the mist directly above the bath. Studies have shown that repeated and long term exposure to the liquid increase the risk of skin problems and repeated, long term inhalation of fumes increase the risk of lung cancer. For the most part, the users of this process are not exposed to levels that should cause immmediate concern. The studies have been performed on those who do this as a daily job over a long period. It is probably best not to use stainless material but if it is, wear protective gloves when working in the liquid and adequate vetilation and/or breathing protection should be used."
http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
I did mine inside and handled the piece several times without gloves or proper ventilation! When I got up on the previous Monday morning I felt like my eyes were swollen and starting to get a head cold.....Please Be Careful!!
When your are satisfied with the results, brush & wash it (hot water and dish wash) very well to remove all the black that will come off. When it's clean and ready for the rust converter (Klean Strip Rust Converter purchased from Wal-Mart in the automotive section usually by the touch up/high temperature paint. Read the directions on this as well! Shake well, pour out into another container what you think will be needed, I've cut the top out of a plastic Vitamin bottle, don't pour back unused product, use in well ventilated area, etc), I usually heat it up on the eye of the stove or in the oven to dry it and to enhance the performance of the rush converter (I've found that it just works better if the item is around 100 degrees.....if it's too hot it will boil the converter and put off more fumes)!
I use a flux brush but a 1/4" cheap paint brush will work. Spread out some paper and brush one side and edges. As it dries you will see voids that weren't covered so dab it into these nooks & crannies and brush it out smooth. It may take 3 or 4 brushings on this side to make it look good. Let this side dry somewhat before flipping it over (unless you have a way of keeping it off the paper) to do the back side. The converter changes the item to black and looks as if it's been clear coated at the same time.
I wash out the small container & brush in very hot water with dish wash for the next time.
Sorry For The Short Story BUT Please Be Careful!!!!!
If Anyone Has Questions, Feel Free To PM Me!
Happy Hunting, Happy New Year, Roger
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